Europe

Italy by train, part 3: Lake Garda

The third and final stop of our Italian adventure took us further north, up to the beautiful Lake Garda. After nearly a week of exploring the dusty streets of ancient cities, a few days of serenity and relaxation was just what we needed!

The resort town of Desenzano del Garda was our destination, but we travelled through multiple other famous cities along the way. Our 3 hour train journey from Rome took us through Florence and Bologna, and after another short train ride from Verona, we arrived at Lake Garda. Whilst many people rent cars from Verona and drive to the lake, we found that travelling by train was just as easy – although the walk from the train station was longer than we expected!

Desenzano del Garda

Located at the southern end of Lake Garda, Desenzano del Garda is the most populated town on the lake. We chose this town as our base due to its proximity to Verona and the connecting trains, as well as its beauty. Quieter than other nearby towns, it felt touristy yet still quintessentially Italian.

Day vs. night in Desenzano del Garda, July 2022

As can be expected with a lake town, one of Desenzano del Garda’s main attractions is its stretch of beaches. Much like on the Amalfi Coast, you had to pay for sunbeds and umbrellas, but there was space to lie towels out on the stones. We spent two afternoons on the beach, and it was definitely what we needed after a busy week! The beaches were initially quite busy, as many Italian and German families choose to spend their summer holidays by the lakes, but by the evening they had quietened down.

What I loved about Lake Garda was that of course, it’s a freshwater lake. It was so refreshing to swim in the lake without any salt or chlorine, and much better for my hair! We also took the opportunity to hire a pedalo one afternoon, which was a great experience. I will admit that jumping into the much deeper water, further away from the beach, was pretty nerve-wracking but so worth it. It was nice to get away from the hustle and bustle of the beach, just enjoy the scenery around us and soak in the sunshine.

Porto Vecchio and Bertoldi Boats, Desenzano del Garda, July 2022

As the sun went down, Desenzano del Garda came to life. A sleepy Italian lake town by day, it transformed into a hub of activity at night. On our first evening we booked to go on a sunset cruise, which was a truly magical experience. We watched as the sun went down behind the distant Alps, glass of prosecco in hand – the best way to spend our first evening! Back on shore, it was clear to see why Desenzano del Garda is famous for its nightlife. The food was probably the most expensive here out of all the places we visited, but still not as much as we were expecting. The bars, although busy, were also not too expensive, and we again discovered that the Italians really do know how to make ice cream!

Sirmione

Just a 10-20 minute boat ride from Desenzano del Garda lies the town of Sirmione. Smaller than our base town, Sirmione also felt much older. The narrow streets are filled with tourist shops, small businesses and gelateries (ice cream shops).

Jamaica Beach and Grotte di Catullo, Sirmione, July 2022

Of course, it wouldn’t be an Italian town without some ancient ruins – 20 minutes up the hill from the main town is the archaeological site of Grotte di Catullo. The site comprises of the ruins of an ancient villa, surrounded by olive trees. With the lake surrounding us on every side, it was amazing to walk around what would’ve once been a magnificent home. There wasn’t much shade though, so make sure you don’t go on a boiling hot day like we did! Fortunately the site also had access to Jamaica Beach, a beautiful flat-rock beach with a nearby bar. If you like a challenge, the rocks are pretty slippery on the way down to the water!

The old town feels like a different world to the northmost tip of the town. The bustling streets are filled with life, and there are plenty of bars and restaurants for you to sit and enjoy the world around you. We stopped at one of these on our last day, enjoying one of the most unusual but incredible Italian inventions – prosciutto and melon, perfect for a hot day! We also visited Castello Scaligero, a 13th-Century castle sitting on the edge of the town. It’s a pretty small castle so didn’t take long to explore, but the views from the top were absolutely incredible. It was a great way to end our time in Lake Garda.

View from Castello Scaligero, Sirmione, July 2022

One week and 3 incredible locations later, we had arrived at the end of our Italian adventure. We headed back to Verona by train, leaving the lake behind. We would definitely like to come back and visit Lake Garda again, with towns like Limone and Bardolino still to explore. Our adventure took us all across Italy, from familiar cities to completely new ones. In a country filled with incredible culture and food, it’s hard to say what my favourite part was. I’d definitely say watching the sun set over Lake Garda is pretty high on the list, but everything about this trip was just amazing.

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